I think you’ll get many different answers on this. The answer is that we all have our own unique tolerance for danger. Some thrive on it, and some steer clear.
The premise of risk assessment is that you need to compare the likelihood of an event vs the consequences. So, if something is highly likely but has a low consequence (ie dumping on the currents course) vs something with low probability but disastrous consequences (ie a tsunami arriving just as we are surfing at Tofino).
The answer is to critically assess the situation and make a decision on this basis. The better informed, the better trained, the better your chance of survival, but do get out there and enjoy yourself. Stretch your envelope of safety just a little bit at a time. There is nothing like an adrenaline rush to feel alive, but still being alive at the end of the adventure is equally important.
See you at the next rescue practice! lol!